What to Expect From ASICS and Kiko Kostadinov’s NOVALIS

In the sneakerverse of the 2020s, collaborations seem to get handed out willy-nilly. But every now and then, by assigning the correct person or entity to stimulate their current catalogue of wares, brands get these link-ups right. In recent times, we’ve seen ASICS come out swinging, planting themselves as the brand for in-the-know fashionistas. Their gargantuan success in the burgeoning fashion market has been widely credited to Kiko Kostadinov, the Bulgarian-born, London-based designer.

Following countless co-branded collaborations (which sold out quicker than you can say ‘Kiko’) and in-house work that reinvigorated plenty of ASICS’ archive models, the duo have announced the launch of their ever-evolving partnership’s next evolution: a line dubbed NOVALIS.

ASICS NOVALIS. Clothing for the practice of everyday life.
ASICS NOVALIS. Everyday function and considered living.
ASICS NOVALIS. Tools for considered living.

ASICS and Kostadinov first joined forces in 2018 for the designer’s Spring 2018 menswear show. Through this, the GEL-Burz debuted and reached instant sneaker stardom. Follow-up collaborations that stretched over the following two years, such as the GEL-Delva, GEL-Sokat and GEL-Kiril, caused similar hysteria among Kiko’s cult following. Alongside official co-branded collaborations, Kostadinov has bolstered other labels he’s worked on, like AFFX WRKS, who linked with ASICS on the GEL-Kinsei. Recently, his side project, OTTO 958, has garnered some love via the unveiling of a collaborative sneaker in May 2023, and he’s also prioritised linking with third parties to conduct epic threeway colabs alongside the likes of Hysteric Glamour and Brain Dead. Despite the Kostadinov x ASICS love affair threatening to wind down in 2020, the duo again turned up the heat, joining forces to work on in-house ASICS models. For this, the Kiko Kostadinov team were kept on retainer to consult on colour palettes, new styles, and materials, but these weren’t official ‘collaborations’.

Nowadays, outside of speciality threeway linkups, co-branded Kiko x ASICS releases have become a rarer occurrence. Yet, the two brands have still managed to deepen their relationship through some more eclectic constructions like the Ballet Hybrid, designed by the heads of Kiko’s womenswear arm Laura and Deanna Fanning, and the menswear-team-designed Zlatyu Shoe. Both of these releases boasted custom uppers with Gel-Kayano 14 sole units, with the Zlatyu receiving a multi-lace construction in place of a regular tongue. Commercial success aside, these two sneakers catalogue the duo’s progression from traditional collaborative work to showcasing a wild amalgamation of both brands’ creative abilities, so it’s not surprising that they’re diving even deeper.

ASICS and Kiko Kostadinov currently live harmoniously in their visionary, design-centric world, so it makes sense that their next venture is a collaborative sub-brand. So far, NOVALIS is still shrouded in secrecy, and we only have a little info teased via their official channels. Still, according to a press release, ‘ASICS NOVALIS is a standalone unisex capsule line designed by Kiko Kostadinov, Laura and Deanna Fanning with ASICS. The new line marks a significant shift into apparel and brings the totality of the Kiko Kostadinov studio to the world of ASICS.’ At this stage, NOVALIS looks to be the full unification of the duo, taking ASICS’ ‘Sound Mind Sound Body’ slogan and infusing Kostadinov’s design language.

The press release goes on to state that ‘Each collection develops wardrobe staples focused on day-to-day performance and wearability. There is an emphasis on function and simplicity grounded in the innovative cut, proportions and playful thought that define the Kiko Kostadinov worldview.’ The Bulgarian designer’s work has always functioned as somewhat of a uniform, which will likely continue through NOVALIS. We’re expecting the continued use of technical and synthetic fabrics bolstered by functional, utilitarian design, and the silhouettes within Kostadinov’s mainline brand may well inform more inventive cuts.

While there will be no shoes as part of the NOVALIS sub-label, Kostadinov and ASICS’ relationship has deepened to unprecedented levels. And with both brands intertwining with such seamless synergy, we’re excited to see what the next chapter brings.

NOVALIS will debut during Autumn/Winter 2023.

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