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New Balance 990 Series: Pioneering Perfection

History Of New Balance 990 Og 1

Loaded with cutting edge componentry and premium materials, the New Balance 990 introduced no-expense-spared performance runners to the world when it debuted in 1982. Over the decades that followed, the 99x series (as it became known) was innovative and transformative, forging new directions in cushioning technology and footwear manufacturing. Famed for their idiosyncratic proportions and unique charms, the humble grey-on-grey sneakers have earned cult status among hardcore runners, sneakerheads and tech-billionaires alike.

Today, the 990 is still at the vanguard of everything New Balance stands for. So, it's time to wind the clock back as we trace the evolution of this remarkable sneaker bloodline.

New Balance remained so committed to their local manufacturing practices that in order to produce enough units to satisfy the North American and European demand, the 997 became their first shoe to be made simultaneously in both US and UK factories. It was also the first 99x model to offer a version designed specifically for women, the W997, which was rebuilt to fit a feminine foot. The women’s version was most notable for its non-reflective N logo, but can also be recognised by its unique panel orientation.

993 (2008)

The 993 followed in 2008, combining elements of the 991 and 992 into one clean package. The big addition was ABZORB DTS, or ‘Dynamic Transitioning System’, a new form of cushioning that utilised ABZORB foam together with the SBS elastomer to target different areas with support and stability. The upper underwent a few minor tweaks, including the addition of an elegant ‘993’ stamp on the heel.

990v5 (2019)

New Balance's 990v5 surfaced in February of 2019. Arriving in of course the old faithful shade that is grey, the shoe received a modernised overhaul while retaining its family's important elements. Most noticeably, the panels and sole unit were simplified, along with updated branding featuring the 'Made in USA' tongue badge and 'V5' logo striking the heel. Since its release, the 990v5 has been dressed in endless colourways (not just grey!) and collaborations too. In the latter half of 2019, size? delivered an exclusive iteration of the model and Engineered Garments brought their flair to a trio of pairs.

The feature has been updated and was first published in 2017.

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