If You Know Nigo, You Know: Nigo’s Epic Journey to the Nike Air Force 3
In the streetwear, sneaker, fashion and music circles, is somewhat of a god. When collaborated with him for , he remarked, ‘There is no one like Nigo. He helped us understand how luxury can connect with a new generation'. One of the pioneers of the Ura-Hara movement, Nigo has done so much more than just design clothes. Since the late 90s, he’s released two studio albums, opened the restaurant CURRY UP in Tokyo, and has been the creative vision behind many brands and projects like and Uniqlo’s UT line. In a 2005 interview with for Interview Magazine, Williams asked, ‘What other worlds would you like to conquer?’ Nigo replied, ‘I’d like to build a hotel and create an amusement park – like a dentist’s office with a roller coaster on top’. While that vision hasn’t come to life just yet, he has achieved another milestone: collaborating with
Imitation as Flattery
Nigo’s relationship with Nike has historically been one of admiration from a distance. In 2002, Nigo launched the infamous BAPE STA, a near-identical reinterpretation of the with subtle differences like the ‘STA’ logo replacing the Swoosh. The model has played a luminary role in sneaker culture ever since. Laced by the likes of Lil Wayne, Pusha T, and others, the BAPE STA has also provided the canvas for several heavyweight collaborations over the years, including mythological ‘College Dropout’ colourway. The very first Kanye sneaker to ever hit retail, the BAPE STA was fundamental in blending Ye's formative storytelling with his newfound fixation on Japanese streetwear. Pharrell’s close association with BAPE, particularly through his brand also further elevated the sneaker's status. Like the shark hoodie and Baby Milo, the BAPE STA became a culture unto itself.
Now, every sneakerhead worth their salt knows that the BAPE STA is an unashamed stitch-by-stitch knockoff of the Air Force 1. But why it took Nike so long to lawyer up will always remain one of the sneaker industry’s great mysteries. In his recent book, The Pirate’s Dilemma, Matt Mason argues, ‘The best way to profit from pirates is to copy them'. In the 2010s, it appears that’s exactly what Nike were doing. Taking cues from Nigo’s BAPE playbook, Nike flooded the market with their own ludicrously lit patent Air Force 1s and inundated stores with lookalike products. Unfortunately, the ‘insane clown posse’ aesthetics were somewhat short-lived, as the GFC cast a long shadow over gaudy visuals and plastique fantastique colour combos. Nevertheless, it took Nike decades to finally take aim at several silhouettes from the Ura-Harajuku imprint.
In January 2023, Nike specifically accused BAPE of infringing on their design patents and trademarks. In response to the lawsuit, BAPE argued that their designs, particularly the BAPE STA, had been on the market since the early 2000s without a word from Nike. They claimed that Nike’s decision to sue after decades of coexistence highlighted the fact that Nike did not see BAPE as a legitimate threat until the business expanded more aggressively in the US market. BAPE also emphasised the differences between the AF-1 and BAPE STA, including the star logo, candy-coloured blocking, patterns and other design elements.
In 2023, over one year after the lawsuit was initially filed, Nike with BAPE. In the settlement, BAPE agreed to discontinue the BAPE STA Mid, COURT STA and COURT STA High. In addition, the Japanese imprint consented to modify the original design of the BAPE STA and SK8 STA.
Game of Clones
The lawsuit provides an important historical context for Nigo’s upcoming collaboration. A full circle moment for the Japanese designer, the partnership was first reported in April 2023 – mere months after Nike initially filed their lawsuit. Of course, Nigo has long retired from BAPE, hanging up his shoes in 2011, but the timing is nevertheless curious.
Not long after the partnership was first reported, Nigo was spotted in New York wearing a pair of Air Force 3s, sending the rumour mill into overdrive. Sneakerheads speculated that this was the upcoming collaboration, although the colourway was in fact inspired by a cult classic Air Force 3 High ‘Escape’ from 1988. It wasn’t until KENZO’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection that we saw Nigo’s BAPE-esque pair of Air Force 3 Lows – confirmed as part of KENZO’s upcoming campaign. Nigo is now at the helm as , a role assumed back in September 2021. Months later, Nigo himself shared the packaging for his upcoming project: ‘You Can’t Put Nigo in a Box’, the caption read, with an outline detailing the inspiration behind the project.
The choice of silhouette was somewhat of a deeper cut for sneakerheads. Originally arriving in the late 1980s, the Air Force 3 is an often underappreciated member of the Air Force canon. The model was more robust and tech-laden than its more streamlined predecessors, which actually made the AF-3 popular among players requiring support.
The heftier aesthetic fell in line with the bulkier, rowdier footwear visuals in the late 80s and early 90s, as players gravitated to more protective silhouettes. Often featuring leather uppers, the AF-3 retained the clean design elements of its predecessors, including the large Swooshes on the sides, but it also introduced unique details, like the Nike Air branding across the ankles and heel areas. Moses Malone and all laced the AF-3 on the NBA hardwood – not surprising given that all three of them required heavy-duty footwear for their blue-collar job crashing the boards. Indeed, the AF-3 was popular across the league among centres and power forwards who needed ankle support and guaranteed durability.
Nigo-tiating Nike
Whilst not as popular as its soaring predecessor, the Air Force 3 carved out its own niche among hoopers and sneakerheads. It’s not surprising, then, that Nigo decided to dig this one up, especially given his admiration of lesser-known and underdog designs. When paired with his lifelong obsession with the AF-1, the upcoming collaboration between Nike and Nigo makes total sense. It’s the full circle moment – the perfect postmodern pastiche. Over 20 years since the first BAPE STA dropped, Nike are finally paying their respects to the Godfather of Streetwear. Remember kids, imitation really is the sincerest form of flattery. It might even land you a colab (or in court...)