Rhythm and Sole: The Sneaker Legends of Breaking

Originating in the late 1960s and early 1970s in the South Bronx, breaking emerged as a powerful form of artistic expression during a period of intense economic and social turmoil. The people of the Bronx found solace in the emerging hip-hop movement and its associated subcultures, including DJing, MCing, graffiti, and breaking. Together, they quite literally flipped NYC on its head. Incorporating moves from martial arts, gymnastics, and earlier African American dance traditions like the Charleston and Lindy Hop, b-boys and b-girls battled each other in cyphers (circles) to showcase their skills. With freezes, powermoves, downrock and toprock all on display, breaking was hard yakka on the sneakers, and footwear choices soon became pivotal for both function and personal style. Jump on DJ Kool Herc’s Merry-Go-Round with us as we revisit some of the all-time greatest.

PUMA Suede

King of the Bronx in the 1980s, the was one of the earliest and most beloved sneakers in breakdancing history. Hitting the pavement in 1968 and originally popular among hoopers and track athletes, the model was later broadcast to the world thanks to the 1984 movie, Beat Street, which featured b-boy groups Rock Steady Crew and the New York City Breakers. The classic suede uppers offered flexibility, durability and comfort, while the low-top profile allowed for greater heel movement. Down below, the shoe’s rubber sole offered excellent grip for b-boys and b-girls, a fundamental characteristic considering all of the intricate footwork and power moves. The flat soles also allowed for better contact with the ground, giving breakers stability for complex routines. Another important ingredient to its success was the price point. Back in the 1980s, the model typically retailed for around $30 to $40 stateside, making it a great entry point to the world of breaking and sneakers. Over time, the PUMA Suede became more than just a functional piece of footwear. The historic hardwood hooper was inextricably tied to the breaking community, with the various colourways and styles allowing breakers numerous ways to express themselves. Belonging to breaking folklore today, the Suede is still the go-to choice for OG Big Cat prowlers.

adidas Superstar

Lovingly nicknamed the Shell Toe thanks to its distinctive rubber toe cap, the was absolutely dominant on the court in the 1970s. In fact, by the mid-way point of the decade, approximately 75 per cent of all NBA players were wearing them. Introduced in 1968 as a low-top basketball option, the Superstar was later embraced by New York City’s burgeoning hip hop scene, where the shoe became a symbol of street credibility. Taken to the cultural stratosphere thanks to Run-D.M.C’s 1968 hit song ‘My Adidas’ and the NYC group’s penchant for styling them laceless (mimicking the b-boy and b-girl styles), the Superstar soon became a mainstream hit and guiding light for the Three Stripes. Manufactured in all leather with a rubber shell toe, the Superstar was extremely durable, allowing breakers to spin and slide without compromising the shoe. Beyond function, the Superstar was also a visual home run, with the distinctive three stripes branding and inimitable shell toe still pounding the pavement today.

PUMA Clyde

Originally debuting on the hardwood in 1973, the PUMA was specifically designed for NBA star and unflappable cool cat Walt ‘Clyde’ Frazier. (Fun fact: the nickname ‘Clyde’ was earned due to the wide-brimmed hats he often wore, reminiscent of Warren Beatty's style in the 1967 film Bonnie and Clyde.) Selected by the New York Knicks as the 5th overall pick in the 1967 NBA Draft, Frazier led the Knicks to their first-ever NBA Championship in 1970, scoring 36 points, 19 assists and 7 rebounds. Known for its distinct low-top design, suede upper and clean lines, the Clyde later became a streetwear stalwart in the 1980s, with hip hop artists and fledgling breakers adopting the shoe en masse. Embodying style, comfort and durability – all essential characteristics for breaking – the Clyde’s sticky rubber soles were also perfect for spins, freezes and footwork. One of the earliest shoes to successfully transition from sportswear to streetwear, it was the suede uppers that really separated the Clyde from the pack, as many sneakers of the era were constructed in leather or canvas. Further infiltrating the zeitgeist through its presence in music videos, hip hop films, and New York City streets, the Clyde became important shoes for b-boys, b-girls, DJs and emcees.

Nike Cortez

A linchpin of America’s West Coast, the has lived many lives across its half-century lifespan. Originally designed by Nike’s co-founder as a running shoe in the late 1960s, the Cortez’s lightweight and durable structure not only made it perfect for long-distance running, but also breaking. Co-signed by N.W.A in the late 80s and early 90s (particularly by rapper Eazy-E), the Nike Cortez became Nike’s best-selling running shoe, and, like Forrest Gump himself, appeared in various guises across its illustrious history.

adidas Samba

Originally designed in 1949 as a football shoe for icy and hard ground conditions, the became a terracewear tour de force for football fans and casuals in the 1970s and 1980s. Later appearing on the streets of New York City, b-boys and b-girls gravitated towards the Samba for its sleek, durable design and high-grade grip. The legendary low-profile gum sole provided traction on various surfaces, while the leather uppers offered both style and support. Numerous breakers adopted the Samba as part of their uniform, and the shoe became a visual shorthand for those in the know. Resurgent in the sneaker style stakes once again in recent years, the Samba is one of the all-time great chameleons of the footwear industry.

Honourable Mentions

• All-Star
• adidas
• Nike