Big Smoke's New Beat: Skepta Details His Debut PUMA Shoe

Hailing from the UK and born of British-Nigerian descent, is the grime scene’s most successful export. With five albums under his belt and one to come this year, the MC shot to global stardom with his 2016 album Konnichiwa. A cut-throat lyricist with the flows and personal style to boot, Big Smoke wasn’t just blowing up the music industry, he was permeating the wider culture, too.

Known to have an affinity for archive and vintage designer pieces and having cut his teeth in a fashion-conscious genre like grime, it’s no surprise that Skepta channelled some of his energy into creating his own clothing label, MAINS. Around the same time, he was tapped for his first sneaker collaboration. In 2022, Skepta made a switch that saw him join forces with , moving into an ambassadorship role that would allow him to be more hands-on. Now, two years later, the first products to come out of the partnership are here. Enter: the Skope Forever, Skepta’s first-ever signature sneaker.

Skoping Out the PUMA Archive

Skepta’s love for archive fashion is well-documented within his lyrics, so it’s no surprise that the Skope Forever was born from a vintage gem. During the shoe’s development, Big Smoke immersed himself within the Big Cat’s own archive – a treasure trove of weird and wonderful product that may or may not have been released over the years.

Among the products that were presented, one particular pair caught Skepta’s eye: a 2000s golf shoe called the PG Patent. Originally designed with a brogue-style upper and vivid green patent panelling, the sneaker seems an off-beat choice given Skepta’s stealthy back catalogue, but the artist himself begs to differ: ‘We saw the green and white PG Patent when we were in the archive, and I don't know, there was just something about it. It felt super on-brand.’ Using the pair as a reference, he began to work on ways to make the shoe his own. ‘It needed lifting so we made it higher. We added the sole, we added the chrome, and here we are – the Skope.’

Daring to Dream

Getting the silhouette right is one thing, but when you’re creating your first signature shoe, it’s essential to nail the storytelling angle too. Continuing the design language from his previous collaborations, the Skope Forever is a homage to all the pairs Skepta missed out on as a kid. But as someone with no traditional design background, Big Smoke had to dig a little deeper to bring his vision to life. ‘Obviously, I haven't been to school to study design or anything like that, so initially, when I go to design, it's like I'm designing from pure magic,’ he tells us. ‘[I remember] going into stores with my mum and looking at shoes and wishing I could get them, and I couldn’t. I draw on the magic of that feeling, you know.’

It’s a technique he’s employed throughout his time as a collaborator, and also the inspiration behind some of his signature motifs. ‘That's also where the iridescent and the chrome elements come in. That wow factor, that dazzle, you know?’ He continues, ‘I think that throughout time, throughout all my shoes, that's the continuing thread that people will see. Anyone who knows my shoes would know that this was my vibe. If you've worn my other shoes, you just understand the language on this.’

The result feels fluid, a natural progression. But a signature is a step up in the world and such steps mean an opportunity to put your (literal) stamp on things. ‘I have to say one of my favourite features is this Rudagon emblem,’ he says, pointing to the badge on the shoe’s tongue. ‘They wasn't allowing anybody at PUMA to use that, but after a long arm wrestle, here we are – I'm allowed to use it. So, thanks to the team at PUMA, this is my SK logo – the PUMA logo.’

In a scene that’s seen its fair share of half-assed collaborations, it's reassuring to come across collaborators and ambassadors that really care about the products they’re putting out. With the likes of , and Skepta on board, PUMA have employed a roster of genuine fashion enthusiasts that have the potential to push boundaries. As a result, these collaborators are keen to throw themselves into the development process, from spending time getting to know the brand through the archive and bringing their own references to meetings.

Shutting Down Shoreditch

To celebrate the sneaker's launch, Skepta and the PUMA team threw a party in the MC’s home city of London. Kicking off with a preview of the collection in its entirety (which also featured a giant model of the sneaker melting into the ground), the evening progressed to a high-energy performance with the BBK crew, but not before Big Smoke had joined his fans on the ground to lead them to the venue.

Decked out in the collection’s tracksuit (and with his on foot), Skepta led invitees through the Shoreditch streets, shutting down roads on the way to the stage. From there, BBK members brought the energy, each wearing the Skope Forever on foot, before concluding the evening with a high-octane afterparty.

An achievement in itself, the Skope Forever is the product of over two decades on the ground of the grime scene, seen through Skepta’s own lens. But it’s also the very beginning of his PUMA partnership. With plenty of gas left in the tank, get ready to see lots more from the duo this year.

The Skepta x PUMA Skope Forever drops on May 18. Hit the links below to cop.