Unlocking the Vault: The Archival Sneakers Igniting adidas’ Comeback
It seems unimaginable now, but in the late 2010s, were desperately trying to carve out a space for low-profile silhouettes with little success. These scrawny sneakers were getting devoured in the era of The Tyrannosaurus Flex™️ – an age of supersize me models defined by a hefty diet of , and the ultimate four-digit footwear Falstaff: The .
But at some point, the great gorge was bound to snap the sole, and in 2020, Team Trefoil finally found the right recipe to trim the fat: and the adidas Those at adidas’ Herzogenaurach headquarters still refer to Bonner as a kind of oracle, and if you think this just sounds like more vague, overreach from a fickle fashion industry, then get a load of these numbers. Between 2022 and 2023, the demand for the Samba skyrocketed by nearly 500 per cent in global search interest (even surpassing rampaging ‘Panda’ ), putting the sales in the millions per month. In 2024, the Samba is still expected to drive in revenue, which equates to around 7 per cent of adi’s total revenue –numbers that rival label at its height. On the secondary market, Bonner’s own Samba line went supernova, with some models like the ‘Core Black’ version from 2020 even breaking $2000. Bonner’s Sambas littered mood boards, ladcore hashtags and IYKYK style arbiters like . Importantly, the Bonner effect also provided female sneakerheads with even more direct access to contemporary sneaker subcultures.
With Wales Bonner and the Samba having well and truly set the stage for more slender silhouettes, we decided to venture deep into adi’s Herzog archive to unbox the models driving adi’s low-profile comeback.
Samba (1950)
The sheer force of the Samba’s comeback in recent years has benched every single football rival in the competition. Driven back onto the pitch by British wunderkind Wales Bonner, the Samba is still a steaming sales machine for Team Trefoil. The shoe pictured above is the original Samba from 1950. Initially called the 'Special Football Boot for Icy and Snowy Pitches', its soles actually featured unique suction cups designed for enhanced grip in frosty conditions. These cups could also act like studs, with snow and ice sticking in the holes. Football players moved so swiftly and gracefully across the pitch that they were likened to Brazilians dancing, inspiring the name 'Samba.' The shoe also featured the first company logo, which featured higher d’s resembling poles from the high jump. You’ll now see the logo featured as part of Athletics line with adidas.
Monza (1978)
If you've ever watched F1 drivers work their magic on the pedals, you'll know their footwear endures some serious punishment. This petrol-soaked, pedal pounded pair looks like it’s earned its final pit stop in the Herzog archives. A remnant from the 1980s racing circuit, the shoe was originally known as the adidas Monza, named after the famous Autodromo Nazionale Monza racetrack in Italy. Designed top to bottom with driver protection in mind, the Monza featured special fire-resistant leather and reinforced spines to safeguard the heels. The sole was kept razor-thin to ensure maximum sensitivity for those behind the wheel. Worn by legends like two-time world champion Walter Röhrl, a low-rise version of the shoe was later released and named after the German driver himself.
Japan (1962)
The adidas had a rather muted revival in recent years, but we’re expecting this 1960s trainer to really start hitting its stride as we approach the final stretch of 2024. The model actually belonged to several other sneakers of the era that were named after Japanese cities, including the adidas Tokyo. Above, you’ll see the first-ever version of the Japan, released back in 1962. Primarily designed for training purposes, you’ll notice that the silhouette doesn’t feature any track and field spikes or other special characteristics for competitive running. In 1964, the Summer Olympic Games were hosted in Tokyo, giving adidas a unique opportunity to capitalise on their branding. Revived at the turn of the millennium alongside the adidas Originals concept, it was Wales Bonner who recently took the toolkit to the model in 2022, digging deep in the archive for more niche adidas models after going boomtown on the Samba.
adidas Taekwondo (2000) and Yohji Yamamoto’s YY Mei Brocade (2002)
The is desperately fighting to become one of adi’s prime models in 2025. A performance model originally designed for those engaged in serious combat, the Taekwondo has since carved out a space in Team Trefoil’s vast lifestyle line-up. was instrumental in the model’s evolution, reinterpreting the silhouette in the early 2000s as the YY Mei Brocade sneaker, a design that was clearly influenced by the martial arts mainstay. Utilising the traditional brocade textile known for its luxurious, intricate patterns, the YY remix was unique as each shoe featured an entirely different cut of the material. For OG fans of the Japanese master tailor, you’ll know that Yamamoto’s YY team would eventually become , a 2000s born innovation space known for blending whiz-bang performance tech with high fashion stylings.
As for what’s next for adidas, expect Team Trefoil to continue to bank on their extensive vault of terracewear classics deep into 2025. They’ll also be celebrating a very special member of their line-up as it approaches its 55th birthday: the adidas Superstar. And guess who just dropped of the legendary shelltoe? That's right. Grace. Wales. Midas. Bonner.