The Five Biggest Sneaker Stories of 2024
This has been anything but a normal year for the sneaker industry, with 2024 characterised by poor quality, low-levels of innovation, rampant crime, and an overall sense of fatigue for the hypebeast culture. Nonetheless, there were still some ebullient moments, like the x sneaker, the revival of funky and experimental silhouettes like the , and the upwards trajectory of post . For the good, the bad, and the ugly, read on for the five biggest sneaker stories of 2024.
Salehe Bembury Makes Big Moves with New Balance, Crocs, and PUMA Hoops
Salehe Bembury continued to make waves with his bold and innovative partnerships in 2024, mainly because he’s one of the few collaborators who is able to spread his designs around at different brands. His collaboration with Crocs, which began with the successful in 2021, reached new heights in 2024 with the introduction of the . Teased for months before its official reveal, the Juniper combined Bembury’s signature fingerprint design with a fresh, sneaker-like silhouette, marking Crocs' first significant foray into the sneaker world. As for , Bembury started the year off right with two scorching in the pack, which was then followed by a delicious purple and citrus . Simultaneously, Bembury's partnership with in 2024 saw him take on a major role in shaping the brand’s basketball division. A lifelong basketball fan, his task was not only to design PUMA’s debut signature basketball silhouette but also to help find the next big athlete to represent the brand. His influence was immediately felt, as he debuted a custom runner with a wavy sole unit and the bold ‘Fireglow’ colourway at the Paris Games, showcasing his signature design language while incorporating PUMA’s performance tech.
Between the Juniper and his work with New Balance and PUMA, Bembury took 2024 by storm and it’s expected to continue well into 2025 with the reveal of the PUMA signature athlete and their shoe, the , and the continuation of the New Balance partnership.
Sh*t Is Getting Stolen on Every Level
Crime is nothing new in the sneaker world; however, 2024 saw a series of high-profile legal battles and criminal incidents that highlighted the growing tension between brand protection, counterfeit issues, and the booming resale market. Most notably, filed a , known as , accusing him of trademark infringement and unauthorised use of Nike’s intellectual property through his custom sneaker business. also continued, with unsealed documents revealing accusations that StockX admitted to knowing their authentication process was not good enough to prevent the selling of counterfeit sneakers. Meanwhile, physical sneaker thefts escalated with incidents like the of nearly 900 pairs from a train in California and a slew of smash and grabs. One of the took place in Chicago when Flee Club had an SUV drive through their store with multiple people jumping out and stealing $100,000 worth of product. Then, in a twist worthy of an Agatha Christie novel, it was later revealed that the owner and an employee of Flee Club were being charged with felony theft after an undercover police operation uncovered that the retailer was buying and selling stolen goods. These cases underscore the rampant issues of counterfeiting and organised crime in the sneaker industry, fuelled by the immense resale value of limited-edition footwear.
PUMA Get Weird with the Mostro and New Balance Get Experimental With the 1906L
2024 has been a year for bold and experimental sneaker designs, with brands continuing to push the envelope by blending functionality, fashion, and nostalgia. One standout comeback has been the PUMA . Originally released in 1999, the hybrid model has gained fresh attention thanks to its eccentric, Frankenstein-like design. Its return this year, particularly through collaborations like the , taps into the Y2K aesthetic that’s raging through moodboards and has been further pushed with figures like and wearing the pairs. Similarly, the collaboration has turned heads with a reworked version of New Balance 1906R that turns the meshy runner into a hybrid loafer-sneaker hybrid. Whether it’s through the quirky reimagination of the Mostro or the fusion of style and performance in the Junya Watanabe x New Balance 1906L, this year has proven that the sneaker world is as unpredictable and boundary-pushing as ever.
adidas Reach the Light at the End of the Yeezy Tunnel
In 2024, the continued its winding and tumultuous trajectory before finally concluding the partnership that had once been a major financial powerhouse for the brand. The saga began to unravel in late 2022 when Ye’s antisemitic remarks led to adidas severing ties with him, resulting in the removal of the Yeezy line from stores and a significant financial blow to both parties – especially to adidas who found themselves sitting on a massive mound of unsold Yeezy products. In a bid to recoup some of the losses, the throughout 2024, including a major restock in May that brought back 48 different styles including the classic to the highly popular Foam Runners and Slides.
This sale of remaining stock provided adidas with a temporary financial cushion that essentially just covered their losses, as the brand emphasised that these sales did not contribute to their profits. , adidas are focusing on their growth in other categories, including the resurgence of retro-inspired terrace shoes like the and . The mega mainstream popularity of the silhouettes have been more than enough to of the Yeezy brand.
On the legal side, the battles that ensued after adidas cut ties with Ye came to an , though no financial exchange was reported. A securities fraud case against adidas was also dismissed, with the court ruling that the brand had sufficiently warned investors about the potential risks of their association with Ye. With these legal matters behind them, adidas appear to be turning a new chapter, distancing themselves from the controversy surrounding Ye while successfully regaining their financial footing.
Big Strategy and Personnel Changes at Nike
Nike have faced , marked by a series of challenges that have shaken both its financial stability and market position. In June, the company saw a historic after announcing disappointing fiscal and a grim outlook for Q1 2025. Analysts pointed to factors like a lack of innovation and CEO John Donahoe’s leadership decisions, particularly his focus on a direct-to-consumer model and the over-reliance on retro releases. While the pandemic fuelled a boom in demand for Nike's products, particularly and , that growth has since cooled, with consumers shifting towards competitors like , , and , who have all capitalised on emerging trends and offered fresh designs. Nike's failure to adapt has also led to a decline in its street credibility, as the brand’s once-iconic cultural relevance wanes.
Amid these setbacks, Nike have implemented significant leadership changes, including the announcement of – particularly in . The company's focus has been on streamlining operations and investing in growth areas like running, women's product, and Jordan Brand. Despite these efforts, the company has struggled to find its footing, and Donahoe's tenure, marked by a controversial push for cost-cutting measures and reduced innovation, culminated in . His successor,, a , is expected to of innovation and better relations with key distributors. Early market reactions to Hill’s appointment have been positive, with Nike shares rising by over 10 per cent; however, the remains uncertain as they seek to regain their former dominance in the competitive sportswear industry.
For more end of year content, check out the series.