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Here's What Went Down at Paris Fashion Week Men's AW24

Here's What Went Down at Paris Fashion Week Men's

Paris Fashion Week always has a busy schedule, and the AW24 season was no exception. This year's action took place from January 15–21, and the week was jam-packed with shows, events and sneaker spotting. From brand new colabs to launch events, new store openings to secret gigs, it’s almost impossible to keep up with all the goings-on, but team SF were on the ground to bring you all the latest. Whether you want to make sure you didn’t miss anything or you just had major FOMO, here’s what went down.

Sneakers Stormed the Runway

The Autumn/Winter season can often feel a little light on sneakers, with brands sending out boots to combat the cold winter weather. That doesn’t mean that the offering wasn’t strong though, as we still saw colabs from the likes of Comme des Garcons, KENZO and AURALEE. Scroll for the rundown.

AURALEE x New Balance

Having previously teamed up with the Boston-based brand on the 1906R, 2002R and 550 to name a few, AURALEE showcased two new NB 990v4s at their FW 24 show. The first arrived in a tonal blue make-up with cream accents providing contrast, and the second pair took on an autumn-ready mink-grey shade while pops of blue added colour to the mix. As usual, the Made In USA sneakers came kitted out in their usual construction of breathable mesh, smooth leather and supple suede.

Louis Vuitton x Timberland

Pharrell’s third LV collection saw him take the luxury fashion house to the Wild West, with a few workwear staples thrown in among the cowboy boots and chaps. Though they’d been previewed previously, we also saw Skateboard P roll out Vuitton’s new Timberland collaboration, which included a couple of other styles alongside the classic 6-inch boot. Within the mix, Pharrell also previewed alternative boot colourways, including pairs that arrived covered in the House’s famed monogram. Other pairs still came kitted out with luxury details, including a more subtle laser-etched monogram detail on the reverse side of the tongue.

Wales Bonner x adidas

As expected, more Sambas were on the cards at Wales Bonner, too. While multiple samples have surfaced over the past couple of weeks, the latest pair to surface is limited to just 750 pairs and features black leather uppers and gold stud details. Exposed decorative stitching also features on this pair – this time coming in a contrasting cream shade. The limited run is called out on the tongue, where pairs have their numbers displayed in gold debossed detailing.

Feng Chen Wang x Converse

Having recently been named as one of the female creatives to make up Converse’s new Catalyst line, Feng Chen Wang presented her upcoming Chuck 70 Low collaboration during her show. Though we’d been given a glimpse at the pairs via her Instagram a week earlier, it was at the show that we saw her ‘My Half’ concept work in tandem with the rest of her collection. These pairs each feature a deconstructed look, with multiple layers allowing for a switch-up in colourways. In true Feng Chen Wang fashion, she also presented sculptural versions of the sneakers that featured bulbous wrap-around sole units.

Y-3

adidas and Y-3 have been partners for over two decades now, with Yohji Yamamoto continuing to bring an elevated touch to the Three Stripes’ staple styles. For this Autumn/Winter collection, Y-3 pieced together tailored tracksuits with sculptured GORE-TEX jackets, before delivering the same approach to their footwear styles. For this upcoming season, Y-3 delivered the Y-3 Japan and UltraBoost 5, as well as a suede iteration of the Y-3 Pro Model. The sub-label also dropped the Y-3 Nizza, which comes in both high and low versions and features a removable midsole. One of the most exciting pairs, however, is the Kyasu Overboot, which was first introduced via Yohji’s mainline AW23 show. This style features a sleek, full-leather boot that can be unzipped to reveal a mule underneath.

Martine Rose x Clarks

Martine Rose caused a stir when she announced a surprise show on January 18, and she showcased her second collection for Clarks alongside the clothing collection. After joining the brand as their first-ever guest creative director last year, Rose is still gearing up to drop the first instalment of the partnership, but be rest assured that there’s plenty of heat on the way. Standout styles included four mules in textured finishes, which also appeared on her collaborative Clarks Torhill. Finally, puffy styles were also on the menu, as Rose delivered a padded oxford shoe and some slingback heels.

Junya Watanabe x New Balance

Junya Watanabe’s latest New Balance certainly got a lot of people talking. At first glance, the pair blended in with the show’s styling, as more formal footwear options outfitted the bulk of the collection. However, keen-eyed sneaker fans (aka, us) were quick to spot that one of the loafer silhouettes was actually a reworked New Balance 1906R. The resulting pair utilised smooth leather uppers while retaining the style’s ABZORB and N-ergy-laden midsoles – a low-key hack to tackling fashion week events in both comfort and style. The toe box and tongue had also been cut in a way that resembled a traditional loafer, with Junya branding hits for an elevated finish.

Comme des Garçons x New Balance

There was no shortage of a runway presence for New Balance, as the brand also debuted this colab with Comme des Garçons. Reverting to a more minimalist approach on this one, the collaboration included two neutral colourways of the New Balance 860v2 – one in black, white and grey and another in NB’s signature tonal grey colour palette. Both feature CdG Homme branding on the tongue, and the construction has changed from previous versions, with these pairs instead featuring tighter mesh and suede overlays.

Comme des Garçons x Nike

That wasn’t it for CdG either, as the brand also revealed their latest Nike colab during their show. Known for bringing a new lease of life to many retro Swoosh silhouettes such as the Sunder Max and Shox TL, CdG now have three iterations of the 2006 Air Max TL 2.5 on the way, in triple black, triple white and black and white colourways. This chunky silhouette is thicker than most Air Max models and features an Air Max 97 sole unit with a completely reworked upper.

KENZO x ASICS

Not to be outdone by other brands, ASICS also upped their runway presence this season. Images of the upcoming collaboration with KENZO have been floating around for a while, but the three iterations were all showcased during KENZO’s show. Working on top of the GEL-Kayano 20, NIGO has delivered two tiger print iterations, and a multicoloured geometric textured pair. While this was a moment in itself, NIGO also had the sneaker scene talking when he gave us a peek at his first Nike project at the show’s end – the designer wore a co-branded tee to signal that there’s still a lot to look forward to for the rest of 2024.

Doublet x ASICS

Known for making a statement with their borderline whimsical shows, Doublet saw zombified-looking models sport the brand’s very first ASICS colab. The cappuccino-coloured sneaker featured a layered construction with added TPU detailing, as well as off-centre branding hits on the toebox and a chunky sole unit. It’s not clear if the silhouette is totally new or a hybrid model, but stay tuned for more on this colab as it comes in.

NAMESAK3

The rise of 3D printed sneakers continues with NAMESAK3’s latest creations. Building on their Clipper silhouette, the Taiwanese label sent out several new footwear styles that each featured a net-like, 3D printed sole inspired by their family’s fishing heritage. The tech has been a firm feature of the past few fashion seasons – Louis Vuitton dropped the Zellerfeld-created Cobra sneaker just last year – and will continue to innovate in terms of sustainability and creativity over the years to come.

Non-Stop Drops

While you may have to wait for the AW season to get your hands on the above, there was no shortage of drops over the week itself. PUMA and Coperni partied hard as they dropped their 90SQR, and CP Company and ASICS followed up with their GEL-QUANTUM 360s. Not to be outdone, 99Ginger and New Balance celebrated the launch of their Friends & Family Crocodile-textured 1906R with a rave on Thursday.

Here to prove that Men’s Fashion Week isn’t just about the boys, Paperboy, BEAMS and ASICS dropped their three-way Papergirl GT-2160 on the morning of Friday 19, with a takeover at the café that was sure to satisfy any sneakerhead’s appetite. SOULGOODS then marked the launch of their Nike Air Ship with a community breakfast at Chinese spot ChopChop, as Creative Director Wu Yue continued his mission to bridge the East and West.

On-Street Heat

Runways and pop-ups aren’t the only place to spot upcoming launches, and there was plenty of heat on the Parisian streets. Jae Tips kicked us off by previewing his latest creation, a multicoloured Grid Omni 9 at the House of Saucony, while Salehe Bembury showed up sporting the Crocs Juniper sneaker. Two new A Ma Maniére sneakers were spotted too: James Whitner previewed the retail powerhouse’s upcoming Air Jordan 4, and Sneaker Freaker was on the ground to share a first look at their Air Max 95 colab.

Spectacle Shows

There’s plenty of difference between a fashion week gimmick and a spectacle show, but three presentations really caught our eye this season. Dior Homme, which was staged in the École Militare and saw models take to a rotating runway, quite literally saw the collection rightly put on a pedestal. The ballet-inspired collection paid tribute to creative director Kim Jones's uncle Colin Jones, who was a friend of the dancer Rudolph Nureyev. The house's typical tailoring was reinvented for this collection, and the footwear styles also reflected the inspiration. Martine Rose also had a surprise up her sleeve: the designer announced her show the day before at midnight, and models rocked day-to-night looks and her latest collection for Clarks in a party-like atmosphere. KidSuper also brought fun to the runway, with a theatrical approach that included violinists, dancers and an appearance from Ronaldinho. Throughout the show, KidSuper also showcased his latest football jersey-inspired looks and a new colab with the NBA.

Ws for the Women

Putting women well and truly on the map throughout men’s fashion week, Naked CPH opened up their first international location in the city of love. Naturally, Naked marked the occasion with plenty of events, including an opening breakfast and a Nike house party. Located in the iconic Marais, the store’s interior was designed by Daniel Kutlesovski, and it stocks a huge selection of heat, streetwear and some great Scandinavian brands. Naked now joins a stellar list of sneaker stores in Paris –– you can see the rest of them in our guide here.

Running the Streets

The running category continued its rapid growth, and there was no shortage of run clubs in Paris. Boutique store Distance organised multiple runs over the week, including one with Soar and Tech Hunter magazine, and Patta showcased their new running collection and Air Huarache Plus with a community run and breakfast. Despite the freezing temperatures, more run groups gathered throughout the week – you have to work off all the croissants somehow.

Other Things You May Have Missed

Fashion week isn’t just about clothes – there were a ton of other things going on too. With so much creative energy taking over the city, it was only natural for it to seep into art and music too.  Mos Def performed a series of MF Doom covers at an exclusive show on Thursday night, while GOAT celebrated their PSG partnership with an exhibition. An additional exhibition took place at the Grand Palais Immersif, which was all about incredible street art. This one goes on until July 21 – make sure to check it out if you’re in the city soon.

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